In my recent practical makeup lesson, I practiced how to properly prep and prime the skin and also apply foundation creating the 'perfect base'. I started off by prepping my models skin by cleansing, toning and moisturising the face then adding the correct primer for the skin type e.g dry or oily skin.
Then using a spatula and my Kryolan foundation palette I mixed together different cream foundation colours, and then continuously test on my models face until I have the best skin match. When I have created my desired skin match colour I use a foundation brush and apply the product all over my models face evenly adding more if needed and then blend the foundation into the skin with a kabuki brush. The kabuki brush is important to use because it helps blend the product seamlessly into my models skin allowing the warmth of the face to mix with the product leaving a skin like finish to my models face. I blended the foundation product into my models skin for quite a while as after asking Sue if my application and skin match was correct she suggested I blend the product more into the skin so I didn't look as obvious and cold. After I am happy with the blending of my foundation I then take some concealer, two shades lighter then my models complexion and use this to brighten under the eyes and also cover any blemishes or redness on the face, and again lightly blend the product into the face with the kabuki brush.
Once I was happy with my foundation and concealer application, I then moved on to applying powder to my models face to set the face. I powdered the face by taking a powder puff and some illamasqua translucent powder and blotted it onto the face in a rolling motion lightly, sparingly over the face and once happy wiped away the excess powder. In my following lesson I practiced how to contour and highlight with powder products , this consisted of applying the base to my model the same way as before but this time using the Kryolan glamour glow 'essence' palette to highlight and contour lightly on my models face.
The aim of this contouring and highlighting was it to be very subtle, and gently shape the face and gradually add more if needed. I started to contour by using a dark bronzing shade and applied it the cheek bones, nose and forehead of my model with a powder brush and blending as I go until I was happy I then began to add highlight to these contoured areas, to enhance this shaping of the face I had created and to to finish off my look I played with blusher and add some to the cheekbones to make them pop more.
Even though I was pleased with the outcome of my foundation and contour application of my client, I struggled with blending in foundation on the nose area. My model had explained to me that he recently had a cold and is skin had become very dry due to this so, I made sure I applied plenty of moisturiser before my base application. But I still struggled to blend the product into the skin of his nose area without it separating. If I was to practice this look again with the same dry skin type, I would apply more primer alongside my moisturiser to create a smoother base on my models skin and then compare my outcome to my first application. I really enjoyed this lesson because I got the chance to learn how to highlight and contour on a subtle level that I could build on. For a long time I have always struggled to highlight and contour wether it be on myself or on clients, and have also never liked working with powder contour products before because I have never understood how to use and blend the products into the skin properly.
I enjoyed this practical session and found it really helpful, I feel that I've learnt a lot from the session as now I know how to apply foundation in a technique were the product looks like skin and isn't just sitting on top. I know now how to blend the product in correctly and also set it too so that It looks very natural.
Skin Type - Combination/Dry (due to cold)
Contraindications- None apart from recent cold which didn't really interfere
Products used -
Illamasqua satin finish primer
Kryolan foundation palette
camouflage/concealer palette
Kryolan glamour glow essence palette
Kryolan blush palette
Illamasqua translucent setting powder
Technical Skills -
-Apply foundation with brush then blend with kabuki brush
-Apply powder with powder puff rolling the puff onto the skin gently
-Gently touch the skin after setting it to check if it is till tacky
-Apply concealer after foundation gently blending in with kabuki brush
-Conceal 1-2 shades lighter then base
-powder - stops shine and holds product in place especially under the eye area
-Start applying foundation from middle of face outwards
-Grease on grease, powder on powder
- Kabuki brush - blend in foundation
- White tip brush - powders and blushers
-White tip and foundation brush - apply foundation
-Blusher brush - blending and shadowing
-Angled brush - lips , liner and brows
-Can apply base by applying primer with base or base after primer
- Hands must match the face
-Tinted moisturisers are good for men
- Oil free base if good for oily skin
-Grease base is good for dry skin
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| Color Swatches. |
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